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that's a good question! I'm not sure. I've heard of people saying they had to go over it twice to get it to show up....you should ask Laura Hooper! I'm sure she would know!
India ink is opaque! It comes in white -- and every other color. You have to use a dip pen with it, though. I'm not sure how comfy you'd be with that.
I've had some luck with the Uniball Signo white pen. It's not thick, so it may not give you that chiseled calligraphy look, but it works well on dark papers.
I used white India Ink and a nib pen and it worked beautifully!
choo.jpg (29.2 KB, 190 downloads) 2 years old F_DaisyChrisWed2008_0012.jpg (197.4 KB, 75 downloads) 2 years old dscf2379.jpg (19.7 KB, 96 downloads) 3 years old 
For a regular pen (not for calligraphy), I used the Sakura Gelly Roll Regular Gel Ink Pen (Medium Point - White). I find that it shows up very well on dark paper, and after it dries, it will not rub off at all.
I tried out the Uniball Signo white pen that deviledegg posted about earlier and found that after the ink dries, it will smear easily in the mail and will completely rub off if you rub another piece of paper against it. The ink also runs out very quickly.
Hope this helps!
~Emilie
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I must have bought 3-4 brands of white pens to write on dark envelopes before giving up on the idea. None of the pens were really legible on dark paper, despite their claims of "opaqeness". Have you used a white pen that is great on dark paper? What brand is it?