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The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look?

posted 2 years ago in African-American
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    Okay ladies, where my 'bees at? I need some makeup help. :)

    Next week we're going out of town & having our engagement portraits done. I thought it would be a good time to finally buy some foundation, since I don't have a good one.

    I tried two looks so far: I went to the Mac store and was given moisturizer, primer, and a heavy dose of "Studio Fix" cream foundation in NC55. I got home and took a picture; the result is posted below. Nightmare! FH calls this the "ghost of Christmas past" look. !

    I did more research and found everyone's recommendations for Smashbox Photofinish Primer and Makeup Forever's HD foundation (colors 177 and 175). I went to Sephora today and tried it. I love the primer. This makeup look is obviously better (see pictures), but I still look ashy, both in person and in pictures.

    The lady at Sephora also gave me some Touche Éclat which is supposed to be a highlighter. She gave me way too much, and I suspect this might be what's making me ashy. She also gave me some blush on my right cheek (right on top of my breakout!).

    A month ago I took some headshots (self-portraits). Basically very little foundation; a cream-to-powder thing that doesn't cover much at all. I included it for reference.

    My question is, what am I doing wrong? How can I look like "me" but still look nice & natural in photos?

    If it helps: I have dry skin and dark spots in various places on my face. My camera is similar to the one my photographer will use.

    Sorry this is so long. I just don't think finding a foundation should be quite so hard!

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    1. The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look? :  wedding makeup foundation african american black dark skin smashbox mac 1 Img makeuptrial_smashbox.jpg (110.4 KB, 785 downloads) 2 years old
    2. The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look? :  wedding makeup foundation african american black dark skin smashbox mac 1 Img makeuptrial-smashbox5.jpg (28 KB, 687 downloads) 2 years old
    3. The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look? :  wedding makeup foundation african american black dark skin smashbox mac 1 Img makeuptrial_mac.jpg (96.7 KB, 765 downloads) 2 years old
    4. The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look? :  wedding makeup foundation african american black dark skin smashbox mac 1 Img makeuptrial-myownstuff.jpg (29.3 KB, 709 downloads) 2 years old
     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    Whoops! Still uploading pictures. :(

    I realize the light is different in every single shot... sorry. :( Also, I had to resize the pictures so much that I can't tell the difference anymore.

    Okay, any suggestions for photo-worthy, non ashy makeup for dark skin?

     
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    Chistar       Manchester, UK

    I think your ashy look is down to using the wrong shade of foundation. You want a shade that has 'warm' undertones. MAC Mineralize gives good coverage as well as a nice health glow. I use it with a matt powder. For your wedding look, I'm guessing you want the natural wedding glow look?

    Looking at your pictures, we're probably almost the same shade (I'm NW45/NW50 in summer) and YSL Touche Eclat has never been suitable for me. Unless they make a darker shade in the states, I don't think it's dark enough for a concealer, without making you look like you have white circles under your eyes.

    What sort of powder did they use on top?

     
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    JamaicaBride    May 14, 2011   Charlotte, NC

    I am going to say that it may be your application technique? I am no makeup artist (I discovered Sephora via the bees) but I have noticed the difference in the same makeup when applied by brush versus sponge. I was told to always apply makeup with the brush then touch up hard to reach spots (along the nose, etc) with a sponge. Also, blush is a must b/c you will look washed out/ashy unless you bring that "warmness" to your cheeks that blush provides. I wasn't a blush person mainly b/c I always think of the black people that I have seen wear blush...the impossibly rosy cheeks =)

    You may have seen this already but here is a "do it yourself" picture I took at Thanksgiving. I used Sephora foundation, blush, and the translucent powder to "set" it. The eyshadow and lipgloss is Mary Kay.

     

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    1. The *trials* of makeup: How to avoid the ashy look? :  wedding makeup foundation african american black dark skin smashbox mac 1 Img FirstSoloAttemptUsingSephora.jpg (46.9 KB, 181 downloads) 2 years old
     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    For the Smashbox/Makeup Forever look, no powder. I knew it was going wrong when she broke out that Touche Éclat! I was under the impression that you put some coverage over it, but she just left it the way it was!

    For the MAC, some kind of powder on top... I forgot (sorry!) It was a very light dusting of it. I had a terrible experience with MAC and don't really want to go back there. Maybe I could go to a different MAC store.

    Yes, I'm definitely after a natural look. Hey you have beautiful skin in your photo there!

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    @Jamaica: I didn't apply the makeup, the ladies did... and they used a foundation brush both times!

    I've seen your makeup on the boards and it's beautiful! I had your picture in my mind when I went to the store.

    I *love* Mary Kay... my mom has sold it my whole life, so I'm no stranger to makeup... but I'm not into their foundations.

     
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    JamaicaBride    May 14, 2011   Charlotte, NC

    @Mitla...I can't wear Mary Kay foundation either...my skin just gets too oily and it slides right off. LOVE the lipgloss and eyeshadow though!!

    Hmmm...I will say that I didn't have any concealer at all on b/c the consultant said that it will show up white b/c of the camera flash. Did you use concealer underneath your makeup to cover blemishes??

    My suggestion would be to try to apply it without concealer (if you have it on), only use the primer if you have oily areas on your face. Take a few more pics to see if that changes anything.

    ...I am sure you will find the right combination...and what may look like too much foundation in person will photograph really well. I am going to check back in to see how it turned out...good luck!!

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    I was not wearing concealer in the MAC shot... however I did notice that she put some primer on, and it turned white on my skin. I asked if it was supposed to do that, and she said, "Yes, that's normal." The Smashbox primer was smooth & colorless, I liked it.

    The Sephora lady gave me the Touche Éclat which she put on over the foundation.

    I'm going to wear the Makeup Forever foundations to work tomorrow without any extra concealers or anything, and see how it goes.

     
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    nurseamanda    July 17, 2010   Tx

    i was told by mac one time that when its time for bridal portraits do NOT ask for studio fix, as the spf/ingredients in it rebounds off the flash leaving a washed out look. 

    this was a while back, but i think it still stands true?

     

     
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    crebre80    November 20, 2010   Baton Rouge, LA

    okay, is there anyway you can get your makeup airbrushed? i have a few friendors that are makeup artist and if you notice, it's not just darker skin tones that look completely different. I think it has something to do with the pigmentation and the flash or something like that because to the eye it seems perfectly beautiful... do you know any makeup artists? i know one that now lives in dallas i believe, pm me if you want her info and let her know i sent you..

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    Okay, here are some new developments.

    Today I wore the makeup to work. No extra products, just moisturizer + primer + foundation. I took a picture with daylight, still ashy.

    I washed all the makeup off, and took a picture for reference, and guess what - still ashy!

    Added some moisturizer & primer. Still ashy.

    Added some foundation (in a warmer shade this time, no cool undertones). Less ashy! But it's still there. I don't know what to make of this. At this point I know some of yesterday's ashiness was due to that crazy concealer. Maybe I am using the wrong moisturizer or something. ?

    In person and with harsh on-camera flash and with professional flash, the makeup looks beautiful! So weird.

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    @nurseamanda: You're exactly right. I specifically told the lady that I was looking for a foundation that photographs well, and she gave me "Studio Tech" I believe. Different from "studio fix" (I got it wrong earlier) but I don't think it matters much. There were many aspects of that MAC experience that were unpleasant! :(

    @crebre: I am not having the pictures done here, we're going out of town. Plus, I didn't want to pay someone to do my makeup when I would still need some photo-worty foundation for other photographed events. It's just foundation! Why is it so hard!

    ETA: Sorry, I didn't mean to sound so mad! Just frustrated. I don't mind paying for a makeup artist, but I'd still need some foundation anyway. This is just for the engagement portraits (I have a MUA for the wedding).

     
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    crebre80    November 20, 2010   Baton Rouge, LA

    @Mitla: sigh... makeup shouldn't be so difficult... do you have any MUA in the area that blog? perhaps you can ask them directly or call the MUA that you are using for your wedding? 

     

    Have you tried Mac's tinted moisturizer or bobby brown's?  I have a darker skin tone and both work really well for me.  I use a concealer by mac to cover up my blemishes. I was also quite surprised the last time I went to mac because they used a tinted moisturizer that was darker than my skin tone... it looked really strange and took away the yellow undertones so I also think it depends on where you go.  if all else fails, i know a makeup artist who custom blends her foundations to match skin types and perhaps you need to buy two foundations to blend to make your perfect one..

     
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    ejs4y8    June 20, 2009  

    What about something like an "illuminating foundation"? Obviously on a low intensity scale...I know if they are applied too heavily it can look weird with flash, but particuarly in the winter when my skin goes very matte and dry, it gives it a healthy glow that sings of summertime.Then again, I have white skin, so this may not be applicable to you....but maybe something with some "glow" would help avoid the ashy look?

    But yes, ANYTHING with sunscreen is a no-no.

     
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    Miss Bravo    October 31, 2009   LA

    Have you tried using BareMinerals?

     
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    luckyyou    March 20, 2010   Philadelphia, PA

    Do you have a Sephora near you? I definitely would recommend going in there and testing out the BareMinerals line. I use it every day and love it - covers really well, doesn't wash me out or do that neat 'change colors' thing in pictures. :)

    Also, I noticed in all your posts that they were using primer on you before your foundation. Have you tried applying your foundation without primer? In my experience, I have found that the primer really dulls my skintone. Just a thought!

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    Here is an update!

    Once I took the photo and the ashiness was still there *even* with no makeup on (per my last update), I knew I had a problem that went beyond the makeup. I went back to Sephora, talked to a different and more helpful sales associate who explained that I need to exfoliate & give my skin some deep moisture.

    I bought Rx for Brown Skin (bright & even formula). I'd tried a sample of it a couple of years ago, and couldn't afford it then, but I loved it. So I bought that.

    I also got some L'occitane Ultra Rich Shea Butter face cream.

    The next morning I put the products on, put on my Makeup Forever foundation & took a daylight picture, et voila! I look like myself again. In addition, my skin looks better than it has in years. I can't believe it!

    My mom has always said, "makeup doesn't matter if you don't take care of what's under it." So true!

    Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!

     
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    JamaicaBride    May 14, 2011   Charlotte, NC

    @Mitla...thanks for the update. I am glad it worked out.

     
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    Starbit    April 24, 2010   Scotland

    Good service matters so much. I'm glad you found someone who helped and that you like the results. I buy makeup quite frequently and always dread going to the Mac counter for my foundation because compared to every other company, their employees always seem to be the least professional and the counter the most chaotic!

     
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    crebre80    November 20, 2010   Baton Rouge, LA

    @mitla: must be why i like the tinted moisturizer so much.... it is the exact same concept i think...

     
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    MsMamaBear       Atlanta

    I'm glad you found out what the problem was! I'm a HUGE Smashbox fan, so I'm glad you liked the primer. I use that and the foundation. Love it! I'll never use anything else.LOL

     
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    ellenbbeauty    February 1, 2011   Brooklyn, ny

    I am in love with Makeup Forever's HD foundation. From your pics it just seems like you had the wrong shades. It looks like you have a mixture of golden and red undertones in your skin. So you need foundation that's a mix of both of these tones as well. With MFE HD you should go to Sephora and tryout #178 and mix it with #177. I am not too far from your shade but I have more of a red undertone so #178 is perfect for me. 

    You can save money by using the MFE foundation in #175 for concealer right under your eyes. Make sure to blend it down to the area right above where your cheekbones start. This will highlight your eyes  and make your face glow in the pics without looking ashy. I use #173 as concealer but that's because I  like a lil more drama with my makeup. LOL.

    As far as pictures, you want to stay away from Studio Fix unless you use a darker shade.  I also use Studio Fix because it's easy LOL. But it does tend to photograph ashy. Especially if you are using the NC tones because they are yellow and can tend to look ashy when photographed. So just powder with MAC's mineralize powder in Deep Dark.

    Hopefully this helps you out : ) Happy New Year

    Warmest Regards,

    Ellen B

    www.ellenbmakeup.com

     
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    Soon2BeMrsCLW3    July 31, 2010  

    Mitla, I was going to comment (until I read your last update) that it might also have to do with the time of year...the air is extremely dry right now, so that causes skin to feel and look ashy...i was going to suggest a really good moisturizer, so Im glad you were able to find an answer!  PS I might have to try that Shea Butter face cream, it sounds amazing!

     
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    oyster    July 2010   Dallas

    Whoops! I totally forgot to post an update. It all worked out and our engagement pictures ended up looking pretty good! :) I posted some of them in the "engagement photos" thread. :)

    @MrsCLW: Yes, the Shea Butter face cream is awesome. I only use it once a day; it lasts a while even in this awful winter air, and I have extremely dry skin! At night I use a really light Oil of Olay moisturizer.

     
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    Ms. Mojito    March 27, 2010   Phoenix, AZ

    Your e-pics came out wonderful!  Glad it all worked out for you!

     
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    cdm1014    January 1, 2011  

    Hi Mitla...

    I just wanted to give you some info on the foundation situation... I hope this helps:)

    *MAC Studio Fix contains mica, which means it will reflect the camera lights...hence your ashy/ ghostly look. It will also oxidize to a darker color throughout the day. MAC Studio Tech, on the other hand is really pretty in photos.

    *Because your face has contours (and not flat), try using a lighter, peachier color on the apples of your cheeks, and contour under your cheekbones with a darker, warmer shade..use the same color to contour your jawline and temples. (think like you're making a backwards 3.....from your temples to your cheekbones to your jawline)

    *Exfoliate!!! And L'occitane rules BTW:)

    I think most of the problem that you're seeing is just one flat color...try the contour:) You'll notice this now that I've mentioned it when you look at celebrity pics:)

    Congrats on your wedding!

     

     
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    FutureMrs.Taylor    June 12, 2010   Shawnee, KS

    Did you try the High Definition makeup? I heard that it was the best for pictures.

     

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