Madelise’s Something Blue
10.11 ct dark royal blue sapphire
originated from Sri Lanka, heat treated
11.92 x 14.2 mm oval-y cushion shaped
VVS clarity— silk inclusions
re-cut by Dan Stair
Setting made by David Klass of Los Angeles and Beverly Hills.
Design inspired by an antique currently on eBay, and tweaked to my specifics from David and Amy, his assistant.
10.6 grams of 18k white gold — yes, very very substantial and heavy!
I started this project in September of 2012. I purchased the sapphire, and just let it sit while I collected blingsperation (bling-inspiration) pictures with elements that I love. That was the hardest part! I know I didn’t want to set it something that would be temporary, because I don’t like wasting money resetting over and over, especially since everything needs to be custom for this stone since it doesn’t fit the standard stock settings’ shapes for ovals nor cushions. I collected pictures of things that I thought might look good but I wasn’t sure if it would look good with my stone. I hesitated, waited, and was patient.
I found one that really piqued my interest on ERD’s website. I contacted them to see if they can make the setting for me, but they said it would look different for an oval stone since theirs was previously made for another shape. I tried to envision this, but I put it on a hold since my imagination wasn’t that strong, and I didn’t feel particularly 100% drawn to it.
A whole year later, in September of this year (2013), I decided enough waiting. The cost per wear was going up as I kept letting the sapphire sit hidden in the dark. I needed to do something with it! I asked a bunch of Pricescoper friends for help for blingsperation, while I myself also scoured the internet. Many things made me happy, but I had to find a fine line between happiness and an amount of dollar value I was willing to spend for it. And then I stumbled across an eBay listing for an oval sapphire in a setting that looked very similar to the original ERD that had caught my eye. It was perfect!
I automatically contacted a local jeweler who had worked with the previous owner of the sapphire, David Klass. I had contacted him by email a few times for other projects, but I never ended up working with him. Since he was familiar with this stone, and since he has a reputation of being amazing and charging very fair prices, I decided he was to be the jeweler I would use.
I went in and showed Amy the pictures of my inspiration eBay ring, and she told me David would email me CADs within 2-3 days. I had intended on just getting a quote, and did not bring in the sapphire. She didn’t take a dime from me! I think I actually got the CADs the very next day— they were very quick! And during this time, they were also helping me with designing my new SIL’s engagement ring, too. They were phenomenal. So from September through November, the majority of the design was being perfected. They made me 4 sets of CADs, each with more and more tweaking as I kept perfecting what I wanted out of this ring.
Round 1: Preliminary Design
Round 2: added details to the gallery
Round 3: Changed it so so that the centerstone will be bezel set. I started using Paint here to articulate the changes I wanted.
Round 4: changed the round melee smaller and the baguette melee larger to make it more fluid. I circled these gaps to ask if they’d show up in the real ring (they didn’t). Added round motifs in the gallery, near the shank, to fill up some negative space.
Then they made me a wax mold to come see in person. I didn’t like the changes of the leaf designsin the gallery, so off we went again. We still had to fill that negative space, but I didn’t want any competing designs. I finally said to just make the shank thicker to block out that space. They sent me the very last CAD which I approved for production on 11-12-13. How poetic!
Exactly one month later, on 12-12-13, David emailed me progress pictures of the ring with the melee and the sapphire set, the final weight of the metal used, and the final total carat weight of the diamond melee used. He had yet to polish it and add final details, but I had already had some things I wanted to tweak.
I asked him to add heavier milgraining to the baguette sidestones to match the MRB sidestones, and he did. He sent me pictures of those, and asked what I would like to do with the shank and gallery. Again, I’m scouring the internet for blingsperation.
I went in person to check out the ring and see what we could do. I’m glad he suggested I do this. From seeing it in person, I already had some things I wanted to change. I wanted to have heavier milgrain on the bezel of the centerstone, in order to eat up more of the thicker bezel. I wanted to add milgrain all around the gallery and on the borders of the shanks. This is the step we’re currently on. I’m hoping that maybe this might be enough to make the setting feel complete, without having to add much more, if any, engraving to the shank.
Me with it on:
FYI: All of David’s milgrain and engraving work are hand-done. It takes a very long time to do, and is executed with a lot of patience. So imagine how crazy up-the-wall I must be driving them! But no, he and Amy are just so so patient with me, and are both so so enthusiastic and excited about my project as if it was their own. I am incredibly impressed with their work and their above-and-beyond type of customer service.
I’m looking forward to the complete final product! And will share it here when it’s all done 😀
I hope that this has been helpful in some way or another to you. A lot of times, I hear about how people feel guilty or bullied by jewelers– it’s not supposed to be that way! If you feel “meh” about something, sleep on it. I feel like there are “The One” type of settings and rings out there, and every girl deserves to have the perfect “The One” for them. Don’t settle on a design because you’re sick of designing or because you can’t find anything that makes your heart sing– you’ll find it eventually!!