(Closed) Designing engagement ring – help!

posted 5 years ago in Rings
Post # 2
Member
139 posts
Blushing bee

I think it needs double claw prongs, I think it shows off the cut of the stone better. I like the inclusion of per birthstone. Personally i’m not a fan of mixed metals but if that’s what she is into I think it works. 

Post # 3
Member
325 posts
Helper bee
  • Wedding: September 2016

Maybe look at some rings by Verragio, they usually do miligrain on the sides and also mix metals, I think you could get a better idea/visual.

As for the suggestion for double claws, I think they’d maybe be a little too much since the ring already has an intricate and detailed design. The CAD pics look gorgeous and the meaning of each detail is lovely.

 

Congrats on the upcoming engagement. 🙂

Post # 4
Member
1656 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: July 2009

View original reply
banks504 : I think this has a lot of nice details. But, here are a few suggestions. 1) Specify delicate claw prongs. These are too large and too bulky, as shown. Look at rings by Leon Mege or Erika Winters (below) for amazing delicate prongs. They should be almost invisible on the stone and very tapered and pointy. (2) I love the sentiment of adding your birthstone, but that placement will make cleaning the sapphire a PITA. Sapphires need to be kept pristine to sparkle. A dirty sapphire will lose its fire and look lifeless, especially when pale colored. So, I would recommend moving the aqua from the underside of the gallery and inset it into the band, just to the right or left of where it is located. (3) For the same reason, I would reduce or remove the inner petals on the sides of the head (down-facing arrow). Not only do they block the view of the sapphire, but they make cleaning hard. But, If you keep them, narrow them at the base so they start thinner and then get wider at the top. They are too bulky and need curvature. Add milgrain on the edges of these. (4) Any milgrain on the sides of the ring will be worn away by her wedding band. Have them use DELICATE milgrain the edges of the head (see below Erika Winters…see that fine milgrain on the edges of the swoops?  (5) the petals with the diamonds are too bulky. They should narrow (see up arrow) to add some curvature.  See the Erika Winters ring below? Your petals are essentially these, but 180 degrees. The legs should taper more strongly as meet each other. You want delicate and tapered. This will add shape to the petals.  (6) This overall ring has a very square bulky feeling from the top. I’m not sure of the band width here, but what if you tapered the top near the diamond/basket”? That would give the ring a much more delicate feeling from the top and make the sapphire look bigger to boot. Since you have the rose gold under-band, you can narrow the upper band without loss of strength. See the ring looking top-down on a finger (7) They need to provide access to the underside of the diamonds on the band for cleaning. Dirty diamonds look 2 colors lower. See last two pictures. (8) No scrolls. Too many ideas. The most enduring designs are elegant. Let the petals/flower inspiration stand out. Adding too much other stuff makes is busy. Think, clean, elegant, timeless. (9) See if they can widen the cut-out/V where you wanted scrolls. Again…cleaning access to the ring is critical.

caddedit

Erika Winters Bridal Jewelry Grace Solitaire Engagement Ring

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Image result for erika winters pave

Image result for tacori engagement rings

Post # 5
Member
257 posts
Helper bee

 Are you sure you have the same ideas about delicate and low-profile as your girlfriend? Will she be able to wear the ring to work, depending on what she does with her hands? I think the size of the stone alone makes this non-delicate at least to me, but you’re talking to a woman who just got a 0.15 ct engagement ring…

 

Post # 7
Member
1751 posts
Buzzing bee
  • Wedding: June 2016

View original reply
yurippe :  yes, I agree. This is a pretty big stone and thick band – I wouldn’t say it’s delicate. To me delicate would mean a very thin band, and small stone(s).

OP – you might ask her what her definition of ‘delicate’ is.  Here is more what I would think of as a delicate ring (keeping your cushion cut stone):

Post # 8
Member
2260 posts
Buzzing bee
  • Wedding: September 2016

I agree with the PP that the ring you are designing isn’t really delicate….  I do love the scroll work you marked up though.  It’s just like my ring:

 

Post # 9
Member
268 posts
Helper bee
  • Wedding: October 2016

I kind of agree that it isn’t really delicate. It’s a beautiful design, and it’s clear you’ve put so much thought and effort into it. Maybe make the band a little thinner, like the picture mishybear posted. And honestly, glitterysala sounds like she knows what she’s talking about, so I’d probably take her suggestions into consideration too! I’m sure you can make this a little more “delicate” without taking away from any of the unique aspects of it!

She’s a lucky gal! Good for you!!

Post # 11
Member
1656 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: July 2009

I agree that the design needs some tweaking to be more delicate, but not a wholesale rework. All the elements are here. CAD adds 20% to the metal, so they always look more bulky, but by showing the jewelers the end-product in photos — they know how much to remove from the CAD and how much they will need to be able to actually file/finish in metal. I like this design and the thought put into every part.  So, I think the OP should just work on refining the design. I think mishybear’s post is a great inspiration IF the OP decides to remove the pave. But, if you do this kind of side detail and pave, it will raise the entire band/shoulder profile much higher making the whole ring look thick off the finger.  That will take away from the OP’s desire for delicate. I advise keeping the details fewer and more refined. So, it is either the scroll/side view or the pave shoulders in my design aesthetic. I also think function (wear ability and cleaning) need to be a huge part of the design. This has been lost by some ring makers, much to the dismay of the owners once they have to keep the darn things clean. 

For the u-pave. This is a variation that is more durable. This is a vintage ring through my 10x loupe. Do you see how the diamonds do not stick out beyond the metal prongs? This is invisible from above, but allows this ring to sit against another without the diamonds eating at the metal. Or, exposing the diamonds to chipping.  This is a nice detail to allow a wedding band to be flush and undamaged. This has been worth by 3 generations in my family, as a daily ring, and never lost a stone. It has been sized several times. No issue. With pave rather than prongs, re-sizing can be a big issue.

In My Humble Opinion. You are on the right track banks504!

 

sidesetting2

 Edited to fix spelling erros. Typing on phone!

 

Post # 12
Member
1656 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: July 2009

View original reply
banks504 :  Glad you are finding some help here. Ok, on #3. My arrow is pointing to a petal of metal they are proposing. It will attach to the base of the gallery and project upward. The cut-out is between this petal and the prongs. On that element, I would remove it (I like seeing my stone). But, if you want to keep it, the base is too wide.

On cleaning. Yes, all those are good ways to clean a ring. But, the reality, is that dirt/oils on the bottom of the stone is the hardest to get off and will accumulate the worst. Reflection of light is dependent on those bottom surfaces being a mirror, right? Diamonds have a higher refractive index, so sparkle more when dirty as compared to a diamond. Light colored sapphires (my favs btw) will suffer more than dark colored ones. So, when designing with a sapphire, access to the bottom is critical. Into cars? Think of it like this…you are taking an antique car to a show. If you had to choose between cleaning the engine of an American muscle car or Ferrari, which do you choose? Me, I’ll take the muscle car because there there is loads of space all around the engine…I can stick my whole arm and leg in there! Not so the Ferrari…the Ferrari’s engine area is so  tight that you will lose a layer of skin trying to clean it and need much harsher solvents. So, can I see them, sure, can I get grime off…not without a lot more work. {now, if you ask which I’d rather drive….}

White sapphires tend to have an underlying body color of pink, blue or yellow. All of these will look good in rose gold. So, for the rose gold element. Mixed metals are always a challenge to get the right balance. I think you have to decide how much of an element you want this to be. Just underneath is fine and will be a nice touch when the sides are visible. But, I think you could really integrate it into the design by making the whole head rose gold, but leaving the white shoulders. That would integrate the rose into the whole ring (just adding milgrain would not do that for me). Have a look at rings by Maevona. She is amazing at balancing mixed metals and details that flow together.

Post # 14
Member
1327 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: November 2016

I am not good with this kind of thing so can’t help but I just wanted to say that I love the aquamarine underneath. I’ve seen lots of peekaboo stones at the side (my ring has them) but never underneath like that!

Post # 15
Member
1656 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: July 2009

 

View original reply
banks504 :  On the petals, I’m stumped. On the CAD – they look like support struts. On the rendering, they look solid. Just draw a circle around the area I pointed to (down-arrow) and ask them about them. That Erika Winters ring is a good picture, since it is very similar to your — just with the swoop detail going in the opposite direction.  You can specify that there is nothing in the gallery other than the prongs structures. Those may be simply artifacts of how they built the CAD. But, this is the stage to be super detailed. Looking forward to revised CADs. 

What color metals does your Girlfriend wear? Is there mostly cool metals (silver, white gold) or warms (yellow, rose gold, brass)? Go have a snoop. Does she like shiny finish on her metals or are they more organic? Does she wear mixed metals on the same hand? That insight might help with deciding to keep or remove the rose gold. What is the white metal here? Platinum or white gold? What alloy are they suggesting?

 

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