Help me identify the era/age/type of ring this is. :) Thank you.

posted 2 years ago in Rings
Post # 3
405 posts
Helper bee

Hi Bee – I would post this on the pricescope forum for vintage and antique jewels. I know you are itching to learn more, so here are some of my thoughts as a collector of vintage and antique jewelry:

I agree the diamond looks to be transitional; it’s doesnt appear to  have an open culet in your previous post & the girdle isn’t polished. Giirdles were always polished with the introduction of modern round brilliant cuts, suggesting this is an older cut. (It sounds like you know the evolution of diamond cuts, but just in case, the evolution from crude table cut diamonds to today’s modern round brilliant spanned centuries, and went from old mine cuts, to old European cuts, to transitional, and then the modern round brilliant.)

I would guess that the period of this ring is likely late 30s/40s or later; yellow gold really came back in style then, and timing lines up for a transitional cut.

It’s also possible that the head of the original ring (holding the diamond) was married to this band. The band itself almost looks like the typical ‘toi et moi’ bypass setting with the diamond set in the middle; it’s possible that the irregularity you references is from metal testing.

The makers mark is really hard to see – you could try using the Lang antiques website  (AJU – antique jewelry university) database to search for the maker if you can guess at the characters/marks.

good luck & please let us know what your jeweller says! I thinks it’s lovely!


Post # 4
39 posts
  • Wedding: July 2019 - City, State

This ring is beautiful! I love rings that are not from this era!

Post # 7
405 posts
Helper bee

View original reply
tbenjamin4884 :  

I do see the gap you are referring to at the head, which (in my opinion) is consistent with where the original shank you have been. 

Once you are able to have the ring looked at by a jeweller, they should be able to confirm construction method and materials. While the simplest method to test metal content is using gold testing acids and a touchstone, there are other ways, like XRF, that won’t damage the ring.

I suspect this ring was soldered together to the best of someone ‘s ability; platinum requires significantly higher heat that gold, so if the head is platinum and the band gold, this would explain some of the ‘imperfect’ workmanship. 

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