(Closed) Lab made diamonds?

posted 5 years ago in Engagement
Post # 2
Member
8601 posts
Bumble Beekeeper
  • Wedding: September 2015

If its an actual lab made diamond, it has the same properties of a natural mined diamond and the same cost. If it seems like a great deal… its an overpriced CZ and those are pretty soft for everyday wear. If you get a good deal on one though you could just replace it as needed.

Post # 3
Member
32 posts
Newbee

A lab created diamond has all of the same properties as a naturally mined diamond. I have one and it is beautiful, sparkly, and will withstand the test of time. I am pretty rough on my hands and jewelry, but my stone looks just as beautiful as the day my now husband proposed. Lab stones tend to be cheaper. Look into Brilliant Earth, they are a wonderful company.

Post # 4
Member
478 posts
Helper bee
  • Wedding: November 2017

the only way someone would be able to tell the difference between a lab made diamond and a diamond from the earth is if they used a special took to measure the age of the carbon.

Post # 5
Member
1656 posts
Bumble bee
  • Wedding: July 2009

View original reply
hollybee73 :  I agree with others. A true lab-grown diamond is chemically teh exact same as a earth-mined one. Just like an earth-mined stone, the CUT is the key. A lot of folks buy from DNEA or Diamond Foundry directly (NOT NOT NOT Diamondnexus). You can also get good lab-grown diamonds via a number of big sellers who only sell to retaillers (PureGrown, ScioDiamond). Aside from the source of the stone, you can use the same criteria to select a lab-diamond. Rounds are the easiest to buy ‘by the numbers.’ 

To detect a lab-grown diamond, GIA uses a variety of methods of identifying microscope elements of how the crystals looks, how it was grown, how it flouresceces, how the faults look…etc.  

In case it is helpful, I’ve pasted below “Round Diamond 101” which is wrtten about earth-mined, but the same rules apply to lab diamonds.

Cut: This is the most important element of making a diamond sparkle. See below and only accept “Excellent” on the certification. The cut grade provides a single rating that weighs the combined impact of facet shapes and angles, girdle width, culet size, polish, and symmetry. But, it is subjective to a point. Stay with Ideal and Excellent.

These are measurements to help you stay in ideal cut territory with a GIA excellent cut round stone, but graded by any lab.

  • table: 54-58
  • depth: 59-62.3
  • crown angle: 33.5-35.0
  • pavilion angle: 40.6-40.9 (sometimes 41.0)

And the crown and pavilion angles must be complementary which is what the HCA checks for you.

If a stone fits those numbers, then run it through the HCA tool. This is an exclusion tool, but it will eliminate any round that will be an automatic no. http://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca;  You want to see Excellent on light return, fire, and scintillation, and very good on spread. An overall score of 2.0 or lower means a diamond is worth exploring further (but a 1.0 isn’t necessarily better than 1.9).

Clarity: You want an ‘eye clean’ stone as stated by a gemologist if you are looking at a VS2, SI1, SI2. VS2 is ‘safe’ if a gemologist is not involved.

Color: This is personal, but if you set the J in yellow or rose gold, the body color should be minimally visible. Setting it in white gold/platinum (or with a halo of higher color diamonds) will offer your eye a visible contrast and can make the body color more obvious. I personally stick with G/H in modern rounds for platinum/white gold. The only J I would place in platinum would be one of a few super-ideal branded diamonds (e.g., High Performance Diamonds, BrianGavin Blue, etc.).

Flourescense: None, fair or medium. Avoid strong fluorescene in D,E,F or VeryStrong on G or H. Fluorescence is a cool effect in diamonds, but can contribute to haziness.

Certification: GIA, HRD, AGS are the best. EGL and most others are very soft. Assume you are looking at a color 2 lower and clarity 1 lower (at least) for non-GIS/HRD/AGS.

Type of Inclusion: Any inclusion visible in the center of the diamond is a non-starter. Also look for twining wisps and feathers. These are nice ways of saying ‘crack’ and they can, but not always, lead to the stone being more likely to fracture.

 

 

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