Post # 1
Hi bees, long time no talk! I hope you’ve all been well.
Anyways, my husband and I will be buying a home in a few months. We are so excited to finally have a fenced yard after so many years of apartments! However, I’m worried about my dog.
I got him shortly after I moved away from home at 18. I had no clue how to train a dog. Basically any time I am out walking my dog, if he sees a person or another dog he goes CRAZY barking and trying to rush over to the dog. (Btw- he would never hurt a person or dog- he’s all bark no bite. He’s a yappie maltipoo).
I feel terrible about it. I know if he were trained correctly he wouldnt behave like that, and we would both enjoy our walks and time more. But I have no clue how to reverse the behavior.
I’ve tried telling him no and putting him in his kennel, holding his snout closed until he calms down, coming straight inside when he starts barking, etc. I’m at a loss.
Ive read online about VIBRATING collars- not SHOCK collars – and I’ve read good reviews. Even though the vibration doesn’t hurt, I know it would frighten him and I don’t really like the idea of fear as a way to train though.
Any tips bees???
Also, I love my dog and he’s my family, so please don’t accuse me of anything less than that!
Post # 2
No, just no.
Please do research on behavioral dog training. Google. Get training with a professional. Your “methods” – holding his snout closed (seriously???) are not going to work. They aren’t healthy for you or your dog.
You don’t need a shock or vibrating collar. In most cases, when a dog is not behaving – it is the human that needs the training.
Post # 3
cls9q: I would suggest having a look around this web site for information on retraining your dog. Patricia McConnell is an amazing behaviorist.
Post # 4
What about proper training classes? Is it too late for that?
Post # 5
Our hunting dogs wear shock collars, but those are only used for last resort safety measures and usually only on newish hunting dogs. For a house dog who needs training, I’d try other methods first. I’m not keen on even using the vibrating collars for anything other than last resort training.
Post # 6
No. No. No. Those collars are rarely used correctly.
And just so you know… dogs noses are very sensitive. You are probably hurting your dog a great deal by holding his snout shut. Since you admitted to having no clue how to train your dog you need to hire a professional and actually be involved in the training process.
Post # 7
I’m not against shock collars, I think that they can be effective under certain circumstances. One of our dogs would bark constantly when I wasn’t home, I tried a few methods to try to stop this, but I kept getting passive-aggressive letters from other apartment residents and I was afraid that I was going to be forced to get rid of him. Ten minutes with a shock collar fixed that completely. He didn’t even need the shock collar anymore after a few days. We also have a friend who has an aggressive dog that they rescued who has spent hundreds of dollars on working with a fancy trainer to modify his behavior, they also use a push button shock collar.
Now, our other dog is like you describe. He’s totally reactive to any other dog he sees on a leash, same thing, not aggressive, but barks and tries to get to them and is completely inconsolable. It’s totally embarrassing. He will bark straight through a shock collar, it doesn’t work at all. I can’t imagine a vibrating collar working on a dog that is already flipping out and barking either. Unfortunatly, I can’t really offer any advice here, we never could get him to stop doing that. I think it stems from something that happened to him before we rescued him. We just avoid situations where he comes into contact with other dogs on the leash. He’s fine at a dog park or during off-leash situations. If you can afford to hire a dog trainer, that’s probably best.
Post # 8
Ok, first off there’s no “quick fix”. Training is a long, patience practice that allows you to develop a trusting relationship with your dog. “Traditional” methods involving fear, or punishment, are not effective for this without serious ramifications. Look into “positive reinforcement dog training.” Google it and you’ll get good results – the easiest way is to “clicker train”.
if you want to put a band-aid on the walking problem that WILL help the walking and won’t hurt your dog, then get a Halti or Gentle Leader style head collar. It will help a lot while you work on the training.
Post # 9
cls9q: a few years ago we had a Boston puppy that would bark when we would leave the house. He would bark for hours and we had gotten a complaint from out apartment complex. The stock collar was the worst thing we could have done and I still feel bad about it. He freaked out and it literally scared the shit out of him. All over the back wall and it was the most horrifyi . Sound coming from his little mouth. We used it once and never again. My husband actually had tears falling bc He felt so guilty.
Please try another method
Post # 10
If you use a shock collar, the dog will associate the pain/discomfort with the people/dogs he’s barking at. In his mind, every time he sees a dog or person, he gets a shock. It may make him become aggressive because of this association.
I’ve been working for over a year with my dog on lead reaction. She’s completely fine off the lead at the park, but it’s a different sorry when she wants to get to other dogs while she’s on the lead. She has gone from full out barking to an occasional low grunt if I’m not on top of it. I think she will eventually stop comepletely, but it takes a lot of time and effort on my part. How I did it is I am always on the lookout while walking with her and will try to spot any dog within sight before she does. I make her sit and point to the dog, once she sees them, I give her a treat right away, before she can bark. If she barks, she does not get the treat. At first, I had to treat her, then quickly go in the opposite direction to distract her so she doesn’t even have the chance to bark. Nowadays, she’ll take the treat and ignore them 90% of the time. You want your dog to know that if they don’t bark, they will get a treat. Sometimes, my dog will look at me by default after spotting a dog expecting a treat. She’s getting very cheeky!
Post # 11
ilovesophia: I’m sorry, where did I mention a quick fix? I thought my post was pretty clear that I’m very willing to try and train my dog so we both have a more enjoyable life 😀 thank you for your suggestion- I will google it!
UnderTheSun14: I don’t think I’ve hurt him- he’s never whimpered or yelped at me. I’ve only tried it because of suggestions that say your dog should know you are the dominant one.
Post # 12
No. And not that I recommend it for any breed, but you can’t control a maltipoo on a leash? I could understand your desperation if he was like a St Bernard or something, but a maltipoo shouldnt be dragging you down the street.
Post # 13
lunaman: lol! reminds me of my dog when we were living in an apartment. We had him pad trained. I have pictures of him as a puppy. He would get on the pad and PRETEND to pee!! And run over to us for a treat after!!
Post # 14
Anon721: he isn’t. Lol. But he barks like crazy and it’s very obvious that he’s trying to rush to the dog/person. I have to use a harness on him instead of a collar because I worry about the leash pulling on his neck when he’s trying to get to them
Post # 15
While training with a professional may be nice, it’s not necessarily something you have time or money for – obviously we don’t know your full situation. When my dog started rolling in crap constantly, I bought a citronella collar. It had a remote. Tap button 1 and it beeps, which you can pair with a command. Button 2 is a beep and spray of citronella to the nose (they do not like that smell) and button 3 I think was a longer spray or beep or something. Unfortunately it didn’t work for the rolling as it was usually too late by the time I realized it was happening. However when we were out for a hike once, in a very remote area, he was startled by some other hikers who had come into the canyon behind us (completely innocuous). He went running and barking at them and I hit the button and he stopped in his tracks. To me that was brilliant. I’d have never caught him in time and it must have been scary to see him coming even though he’s full of the crap he rolls in.
Get a pocketful of treats and either the citronella collar or one of those clicker things. Start pairing her good behavior with immediate treats. Then make it a little more sporadic so the dog isn’t sure when it’s coming and does what you want anyway (that’s how slot machines work, incidentally). The dog will probably be pretty antsy until he gets used to the new area, new dogs. Give him lots of exercise to reduce any tendency to become neurotic. Watch some Dog Whisperer – the ideas you can get are pretty good in the long run.