White Gold or Platinum?

posted 3 years ago in Engagement
Post # 32
Member
6716 posts
Bee Keeper
  • Wedding: February 1997

While thye are very popular, many jewelers do not recommend a 1.5 mm – especially with pave. There just isn’t much metal there, regardless of which you choose. They do tend to bend easily, and they tend not to last long without distortion or damage. OF course, there are exceptions, and I am sure many people here will rush to say how narrow their pave band is and how it has never been damaged, but just be aware that it may not be the best choice in th elong term. But in this case, I would especially choose platinum over white gold.

Post # 35
Member
2699 posts
Sugar bee

I don’t know why your jeweler is trying to give you the impression that platinum is like putty or clay. It’s an extremely durable metal and the prongs will be fine. This ring has platinum claw prongs and I’ve never had an issue with the shank or the prongs bending. 

Excuse my dog’s big fat behind. 

Post # 36
Member
283 posts
Helper bee

Our jeweler told us that she’s always more comfortable making delicate looking rings in platinum. Since my prong are petal shaped, there are places where the metal is super thin and she said that she was really worried gold would crack there. Platinum is more likely to bend if you bonk it, but it you hit it hard and the gold fails it fails pretty spectacularly (breaks versus bending). 

In the end, I feel really good about choosing platinum. In my mind, the major pro of gold is the cost. If platinum is in the budget I would go for it. My plan is just to take my ring in every six months or so to get it polished and make sure that everything is still snug. 

Post # 37
Member
594 posts
Busy bee
  • Wedding: May 2017

Michelle Bin :  this is my wedding band which is a 1.8mm platinum pave eternity. I honestly don’t think I’d go much thinner than that as it’s already very thin (in my opinion). My hands are also quite small (4.5 ring size)

 

Post # 38
Member
784 posts
Busy bee

If platinum is in your budget, I’d get platinum. The ring I got not come in platinum but I would have preferred it. How often you need white gold replated depends on a variety of  factors. My body chemistry breaks it down very quickly If I could stand to be away from my ring this much, mine could use it every other month. As is, I replate it twice a year. My mom on the other hand has had her white gold ring ten years & just needed it replated this year. 

Post # 39
Member
659 posts
Busy bee

Michelle Bin :  I think you misunderstood what I’m trying to say. White gold isn’t necessarily better for a thinner ring. Both gold and platinum have their risks. Platinum will bend (though you can just unbend it) but gold will wear away. 

The bottom half of of rings, the shanks, of gold rings get thinner (and thus more delicate) over over decades of wear. If you’re not looking to keep this as a forever set or an heirloom, it doesn’t matter. But if you are, many years down the road, you could need re-shanking. It’s not horribly expensive (and the cost of fixing it in the future is likely the price difference between a gold and platinum ring anyways) but it is a pretty major repair. Here is what Callagold says about the issue and process: 

Re-Shanking Your Rings; What, Why and When?

I can’t speak to the durability of 1.5mm rings but one way to make your ring more durable is to taper the band of the ring so that it may look 1.5mm from the top but 2 mm from the bottom. Ring shanks are the foundation for the entire ring and they take quite the beating so if you’re going the custom route, you should definitely think about getting a thicker shank. 

Post # 40
Member
6716 posts
Bee Keeper
  • Wedding: February 1997

A number of jewelers will refuse to go below 2 mm on a pave band unless a customer signs a form voiding the warranty. The other issue is the size of the center stone and how the head is attached. In a classic cathedral style, for example, the head is attached only at one fairly small point. With a larger stone, when/if that ring gets caught on something (as it inevitably will at some point), that’s a LOT of torque on a very narrow band. 

Personally, I wouldn’t go under 2 mm with pave in the band, but at least consider 1.8.

Post # 41
Member
1607 posts
Bumble bee

Michelle Bin :  If I was choosing between the two it would have to be platinum. It’s durable, stronger and doesn’t need to be replated. 

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